Photo courtesy of LMU: Magazine of Loyola Marymount University |
Gehenna: a valley below
Jerusalem where children were sacrificed in fire to the Ammonite god, Moloch; a
place or state of pain and torment.
At dawn, the temp is already in
the high 70s with equal humidity as the Skid Row ghosts begin to stir. This is grit-blasted Los Angeles. The lost and forsaken crawl from dirty
sleeping bags, cardboard boxes, portable toilets, cracks in the sidewalk, every
alley and doorway. Take 6th
Street down from the 110 and watch the landscape shift from old masonry
buildings to dead brown blight, and there the ghosts come out. They shuffle into the street, they ignore
traffic lights, they mumble their prayers, they search for food or smack or a
bottle. Seven a.m. is never too early to
get fucked up on Skid Row.
There is a circuit, a grand
master plan for most of the people on the street in that fifty square block
hell in the middle of the city of angels:
find relief, even if it’s temporary.
The human inhabitants know which soup kitchen is serving today. They know where to find alcohol and
drugs. They have their haunts and their
fixes, and as the heat and humidity climb, the misery can only be relieved in
small increments.
The Catholic Worker Hospitality Kitchen, or Hippy Kitchen, as it is sometimes called, sits on the corner of
Gladys and 6th. I had to
circle the block twice because I kept missing it. There are trees and fresh paint on the walls;
therefore, the place looks more like an oasis in a desert, but I was too
distracted by the people roaming around with their carts and detritus. I had to avoid inadvertently running someone
over, because they did not care that a car was coming. On my second go-round, I pulled to the curb
outside a nursery school. A nursery
school!—who would leave their children here?
People were lined up like logs on the sidewalk, most of them
unconscious, although a few were rubbing their eyes and staring at me. I walked a half block back and crossed
Gladys. A woman was washing down the
courtyard outside the kitchen. “Hey,” I
called out to her. “Where’s the entrance
to the Catholic Worker?”
“Down there by the open gate,”
she said, gesturing down Gladys. Two
black guys with their carts blocked the sidewalk between me and the open
chain-link gate.
“Hey, dude,” one of them called
out to me. “You gotta go in there.” He pointed toward the same opening. I thanked him and tried to squeeze between
the two carts loaded with bedding and junk.
Once inside, I met up with Mike
who was handing out assignments for the day.
When he noticed me, I stuck out my hand and told him my name. “Yeah, I need you to start buttering some
bread,” he said. I noticed he had
hearing aids. The other volunteers had
already started chopping onions, and large pots were lined up on the stove. Mike took me to the prep area of the kitchen
and showed me boxes and bags of bread.
It looked like the bread restaurants serve on their tables. Now I knew what happened to whatever the
customers did not eat. Other bags
contained whole loaves. Mike handed me
off to a woman named Anne who explained the process. She set up my workstation with a brick of
room-temperature margarine, a dull knife, and a laundry basket. Bread gets buttered and then stacked in the
basket. When the basket is jammed to the
top, put a plastic bag over it and tie it up.
Wear a hair net and a set of gloves made of Saran wrap. I donned my gear and began slathering.
Almost immediately, my back
started raising hell. I saw a wooden
stool nearby and pulled it over to sit.
I’ve never had any problem buttering bread, but the heat was rising and
the margarine smelled like rancid fat.
My shirt was already greasy with margarine, coated with crumbs, and
soaked with sweat. My Saran Wrap fingers
poked holes through the thin sheeting, so I had to keep re-gloving. The margarine and the plastic also made my
hands slippery, so I could not get a grip on the knife. The other volunteers around me seemed to move
about their business effortlessly, with the finely honed skills of people who
did this three times a week. I felt like
a lightweight with my aching back and my useless, clumsy fingers. However, in quick time my workmates and I had
three laundry baskets full of bread, and we had utilized five bricks of
margarine. I also noticed the other
volunteers ate constantly, grabbing a piece of buttered bread here, or a
meatball from a tray over against the wall.
I had no appetite whatsoever, but the regulars seemed to relish eating. They encouraged one another to try one dish
or spoon from a pot. They sampled like
family members gathered in a kitchen at Thanksgiving, while I tried to fight
the flip-flops in my stomach.
The bread was stored on a wire
shelf to await distribution. Next came
the bell peppers, great trays of them, which I had to dice up with one of the
most profoundly dull knives I have ever used.
And the peppers were rotted, for the most part. Mike told me to cut off the bad bits and
salvage what I could, then dice what I had left and transfer the pieces to
another large tray. I kept cutting my
gloves, requiring frequent re-gloving.
My fingers were safe; I could not have cut skin if I wanted to. The rot on the outside of the peppers often
extended into the flesh of the interior, and some of it looked like pus. I’d cut into the bad and a white-green oily
fluid would seep out. I tried to seed
them as well, but the tiny grains kept sticking to my plastic-wrapped
fingers. The woman next to me hacked her
way through several trays of zucchinis, which were rubbery and covered in dark
spots. These vegetables were the
throwaways from supermarket produce sections.
There was enough good vegetable material to feed an army, but with the
rotted parts, no paying customer would buy produce in this condition.
Mike called all of us to put
down our knives and utensils and gather around the table in the main kitchen
area. We formed a circle and held hands,
praying aloud for the homeless we would soon be serving, for justice in the
world and on the streets, for changes in government policy to remedy the
suffering and misery of so many people.
Mike asked the volunteers for petitions, and a big, bearded man shouted
out, “How about for Gary Kasparov.” His
request threw me for a minute. “He got
hauled in for questioning by the Russian police.” I realized he meant the chess player. I found out later that the petitioner was a
big chess fan and often played matches with some of the homeless diners out on
the patio once serving was done for the day.
“And let’s not forget the Pussy Riot girls,” Jeff, the leader of the organization shouted. Again, it took me a minute to realize he was
referring to the arrests of a protesting punk rock group in Russia for
criticizing the Putin government. We
closed with the Lord’s Prayer and returned to our kitchen jobs.
Back chopping my vegetables, I
heard volunteers around me talk about “actions,” as in, “We have an action
scheduled for next week at the nuclear power plant.” The goal of these actions was to get
arrested. That, for the volunteers, was
the Holy Grail, and a source of pride. Jeff Dietrich, both in print and in public, speaks of getting arrested and going to
prison as a badge of honor. He rails
against LAPD violence and brutality on the streets of Skid Row. Jeff does not like authority. Listening to the other volunteers talk about
getting arrested or dragged away to a holding cell, it was evident that
rebellion and even anarchy are goals considered admirable in the Catholic
Worker world. Over the years, Jeff and
his band have chained themselves to bulldozers to protest the new cathedral
built by the L.A. Archdiocese; they have encroached on the grounds of nuclear
testing sites; and they have poured blood and oil on the steps of the federal
building in Westwood while praying the rosary.
Feeding the poor and offering them medical and other assistance are a
necessary part of Catholic Worker action, but protesting against all forms of
human abuse and degradation, including war, violence, and weaponry, is also high
on the volunteers’ priority list.
With the cooking nearly
complete, we gathered once more around the main kitchen table for prayer and
serving assignments. Today’s main course
was tuna noodles. The smell of onions
was still so overpowering in the kitchen that my eyes were burning, even with
fans running to blow out the fumes. I
was assigned to “water the tables,” which meant drawing pitchers of water from
large trash barrels. Big bowling
ball-sized chunks of ice floated in the water.
The heat and humidity required that we keep up the hydration of the
clients, since they could become sick from their day on the streets. After everyone had an assignment, the doors
were opened to the line that stretched down the block. I had only a second to glance at the
shambling ghosts waiting patiently for their bread and noodles. They were people of color, mainly, and they
had the faraway stares of soldiers who had been in the theater of war too long
with death and destruction. The words from
Allen Ginsberg fire-flashed in my mind: “I
saw the best minds of my generation destroyed by madness, starving hysterical
naked, dragging themselves through the negro streets at dawn looking for an
angry fix.” Many looked down and away,
but in the eyes of the ones who stared back at me, I saw bleak emptiness, “with
the absolute heart of the poem of life butchered out of their own bodies…”
I grabbed my pitcher and a stack
of paper cups and began to “water the tables.”
Gehenna (Part II) will be posted here soon and will deal with the rest of the day at the Catholic Worker Hospitality Kitchen on Skid Row, Los Angeles.